Most of the replacement windows we fit around Newcastle are uPVC, and that is not down to habit. A well-made uPVC window keeps a room warm, stands up to wind-driven rain off the North Sea and never needs a paintbrush. It also costs less than aluminium or timber.
That said, uPVC windows vary a lot in quality. Two frames can look much the same on a brochure page and perform very differently after ten winters. This page explains what actually separates a good uPVC window from a poor one, how they fare on different types of Tyneside home, and what to think about before you ask for a quote.
What makes a good uPVC window?
The frame you see is only part of the story. Inside, a uPVC profile is divided into hollow chambers that slow the movement of heat. More chambers and a deeper frame generally mean better insulation, although the glass usually makes the bigger difference to the overall rating.
Larger frames and opening sashes also contain steel or aluminium reinforcement. This keeps long sashes straight, stops hinges pulling the frame out of shape and gives locks something solid to bite into. A cheap window may skimp here, and that is often why sashes start to drop and rub after a few years.
Things worth checking on any quote
- The profile system and frame depth, not just the brand of the finished window.
- Whether the glass is internally beaded, which makes it much harder to remove from outside.
- The type of spacer bar between the panes. "Warm edge" spacers reduce heat loss and condensation around the edge of the glass.
- The locking hardware, including whether the handles lock with a key.
Energy ratings, U-values and Part L
In England, replacement windows have to meet Part L of the Building Regulations. In practice that means a whole-window U-value of 1.4 W/m²K or better, or a Window Energy Rating of band B or above. The lower the U-value, the less heat escapes.
Most good uPVC windows with modern double glazing clear this comfortably. If you want to go further, perhaps on an exposed north-facing elevation or a coastal home in Whitley Bay, triple glazing can lower the figure again, though it adds weight and cost. The installation also has to be registered through a Competent Person Scheme or signed off by building control, and we provide the compliance certificate once the work is done.
Do uPVC windows suit older Newcastle homes?
They can, provided the style is chosen with the house in mind. A plain white chamfered casement looks perfectly at home on a 1960s semi in Cramlington. On a stone-fronted Victorian terrace in Heaton, the same window can look flat and out of place.
For older properties we usually suggest one of three routes. A sculptured frame softens the edges and reads more like traditional joinery. A flush sash design sits level with the frame, like a timber casement. Where the house originally had sliding sashes, a uPVC vertical slider keeps the right proportions and the traditional horns.
Tyneside flats are a common case. Upstairs and downstairs flats often share a frontage, so it is worth talking to your neighbour about matching styles and colours. A consistent look helps both properties.
If your home is in a conservation area, covered by an Article 4 direction or listed, you may need permission before changing the windows, and some councils will not accept uPVC on front elevations. Check with Newcastle City Council, or the council covering your area, before you commit.
How long do uPVC windows last on the coast?
Good uPVC windows typically last for several decades, and the frame itself rarely fails. What wears out is the moving hardware: hinges, gearing in the locking mechanism and the gaskets around the sash. Salt air along the coast at Tynemouth and South Shields speeds that up, especially on cheap zinc-plated parts.
For homes near the sea, it pays to ask about stainless steel hinges and hardware with a corrosion-resistant finish. A quick spray of light oil on the moving parts once or twice a year makes a real difference. Keeping the drainage slots clear helps as well.
If a handful of windows are sticking or misting while the rest are fine, a repair might be the sensible choice. Replacing a failed sealed unit or a worn hinge costs far less than a new window.
Condensation, trickle vents and fresh air
New windows are much more airtight than the ones they replace. That is good for your heating bills, but it means moisture from cooking, showers and drying clothes has fewer places to go. Some homeowners notice more condensation on the inside of the glass in the first winter, particularly in bedrooms and bathrooms.
Current Building Regulations guidance expects replacement windows not to make a home's ventilation worse. In many cases that means fitting trickle vents, the small slotted vents in the top of the frame that let a steady trickle of air through when the window is shut. They are easy to close on cold, windy days and barely noticeable once fitted.
Warm-edge spacers help too, because the edge of the glass stays warmer and less likely to collect droplets. Even so, the best fix for condensation is usually extractor fans and a little daily ventilation rather than anything to do with the window.
What affects the price of uPVC windows?
uPVC is the most affordable material for replacement windows, but the price still varies a great deal from one house to the next. The main factors are:
- Size and number of windows. A whole-house job usually works out better per window than one or two.
- Style. Casements are the simplest. Flush sashes, vertical sliders and bays take more material and labour.
- Colour. White is the standard. Foiled colours and woodgrains cost more, and dual colour more again.
- Glass. Triple glazing, acoustic glass, obscure glass and Georgian bars all add to the cost.
- Access. Upper-floor windows over a conservatory or on a three-storey townhouse may need scaffolding.
- Making good. Rotten timber subframes, damaged sills or crumbling render around the opening add time.
Our guide to what affects the cost of new windows goes into more detail. Every quote we send is fixed and itemised, so you can see exactly where the money goes.
uPVC or aluminium: which should you pick?
This is the comparison we are asked about most. uPVC wins on price and insulation for the money, and it suits the widest range of house styles. Aluminium windows have much slimmer frames, so you get more glass, and the powder-coated finish suits modern homes and extensions very well.
For a typical semi or terrace, uPVC is usually the practical choice. If you are planning large picture windows or a contemporary look, aluminium may be worth the extra. Our uPVC vs aluminium guide sets the two side by side, and we are happy to quote for both. When you are ready, the quote form at the top of this page is the easiest way to arrange a free survey.
